Stitched buttonhole



J. COFFEY.

STITCHED BUTTONHOLE. APPLICATION FILED Nov.21, 19l8.

Patented Aug. 30, 1921.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

enn COFFEY, 0F osron, MASSACHUSETTS, Ass're voR 'ro UNITED SHOE MAeHINERY CORPORATION, orv PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION or NEW E STITGHED BUTTONl-IOLE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

' PatentedAug, 30,1921.

Application filed November 27, 1918. Serial No. 264,321

ToaZZ whom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, JoI-IN COFFEY, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Stitched Buttonholes; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The'invention relates to stitched buttonholes. I

Theobject ofthe inventionis to improve and strengthen thebar of buttonholes in which the stitches at the end of the seam overlie the stitches at the beginning of the seam in line with and beyond the buttonhole slit'to form what is known as'a fly bar. Buttonhole's of this type are frequentlyprovided with a stay cord covered by "the stitches of the overseam, and a further ob ect of the invention is to more securely anchor this cord at the end of the seam. With these objects in view, theinvention comprises a stitched buttonhole the overseam of which turns through substantially a complete cycle, and has its initial and final end portions superposed in line with and beyond the end of the buttonhole slit. The ends of the overseam thus form a fly bar, the stitches of which may cross each other to strengthen the bar, and the needle holes of which may be so distributed that they do not weaken the fabric. The initial and final ends of the seam comprised in the bar preferably turn through approximately 90 each, particularly in stayed buttonholes, since both ends of the stay cord may be turned with the seam so that they are more securely held against endwise movement, and more efliciently' resist any lengthwise pull due. to strain upon the eye end of the buttonhole.

The turning of the ends ofthe seam also aview of the underside, of the bar end of the buttonhole.

As shown in the drawings, the buttonhole comprises a buttonhole slit 2 formed in a fabrlc 4 and an overseam 6 extending along the edge of the slit and beyond the bar end of the buttonhole. The beginning or initial end of the seam is in line with andextends some distance beyond the end of the button hole slit, the line of the slit beingapproximately midway of the bight of the'seam. The final end of the seam is also in line with and extends an equal distance beyond the end of the buttonhole slit, so that it over lies the initial end portion to form the fly bar 8. As shown, the first stitch 10 of the seam is in line withand nearly parallel to the buttonhole slit. The succeeding stitch 12 1s at a greater angle to the line of the slit, and the outer end of the stitch is preferably in transverse alinement with the outer end of the first stitch, since by this arrangement a square ended and finished bar is formed. The next stitch 14 is at a still greater angle to the line of the slit, being nearly at right angles thereto, and its outer end is in substantial lengthwise alinement with the outer end of the stitch 12. This stitch is the first stitch of that part of the seam which extends substantially lengthwise of thebuttonhole slit. The initial end of the seam thus turns through approximately 90, and in case a stay cord 16 follows and is covered by the seam, it also turns through substan tially 90, so that it has a comparatively securely anchored and held in place against lengthwise movement. The angularity of the stitches succeeding the stitch 14 changes but slightly, while the seam bends laterally L at 18 until the inner ends of the stitches; pass over the edge of the buttonhole slit;' The buttonhole slit is provided with an eye 20 at its outer end, and the seam turns through substantially 180 in passing about the eye, the angularity of the stitches also changing so that they extend radially of the eye and are symmetrically but oppositely arranged on opposite sides of the buttonhole slit. Immediately beyond the inner end of the buttonhole slit the seam bends inward at 22 so that beyond the end of the slit it overlies and substantially registers with the initial part of the seam. The stitches in the superposed end portions of the seam are symmetrically and oppositely arranged so that they cross each other substantially in line with the buttonhole slit. The final end of the seam turns through substantially 90, the arrangement of the three final stitches being the reverse of the first three stitches, so that a series of cross and radiating stitches is formed across the end of the bar which serves to strengthen the bar as well as to give it a more finished appearance. The final end of the stay cord which follows the seam also turns through substantially 90 and therefore has at its end a comparatively sharp turn which securely anchors this end of the cord against endwise movement.

lVhile it is preferred to arrange the stitches in the bar substantially as shown and described it will be understood that this arrangement is not essential to the broader features of the invention, and may be varied or modified as found desirable or best suited to the conditions under which the buttonhole is to be used, or as best suited for manufacture upon the machine which is to be utilized in making the buttonhole.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described one form of buttonhole in which it may be embodied, what is claimed is l. A fabric having an eye ended stitched buttonhole comprising an overseam which buttonhole comprising an overseam which turns through approximately 180 at the eye and through substantially 90 at its initial end and substantially 90 at its finalend and has said ends superposed in line with and beyond the end of the buttonhole slit, and a stay cord following the seam and covered thereby. I y 3. A fabric having an eye-ended stitched buttonhole comprisingv an overseam having its initial stitch located in the bed of the fabric beyond the end of the button ole slit in line with and approximately parallel to' the same, the angle of the immediately following stitches progressively increasing until approximately at right angles to the buttonhole slit, the seam then bending laterally until the inner ends ofthe stitches pass over the edge of the slit, then extending along the first side of the slit, turning about the eye, then extending back along the second side of the slit, then bending laterally beyondthe end 'of the slit to overlie and substantially register with the initial endof the seam, the arrangement of the final stitches of the seam being substantially the reverse of the initial stitches.

JoiiN COFliEY. 

